Otrium continually works towards the mission that all clothing produced should be worn. There is no such thing as a perfect, “ethical” item or fashion brand: it’s not a black-and-white topic. There are, however, a lot of improvements brands can work on. We want to support fashion companies that strive to do better and empower you to understand what this journey entails.
To provide an objective third-party perspective, we have collaborated with industry rating specialists Good On You since 2021. By doing so, we want to make it easier for our members to find items that are labelled “Ethically rated” and support brands that are working to create a better fashion industry. Most brands on our platform are rated by Good On You. “Ethically rated” qualified items come from brands rated 3/5 (It's a start), 4/5 (Good) or 5/5 (Great). Find more information about Good On You ratings on
this page.
In this Ethical Conversations series, we’re exploring the approaches of “Ethically rated” brands featured on Otrium. This time, we interviewed Caroline Mewe, the Founder of Alchemist.
Great to meet you! I’m curious to hear how the idea behind Alchemist came about.
After my studies, I joined the Dutch department store Bijenkorf as a buyer, which I loved. I travelled around the world, enjoying every single moment. Through this experience, I was able to get a close look at the different sides of fashion: on the one hand, the world of glitter & glamour, and commercialisation, and on the other, the stark reality of the industry. I visited clothing manufacturers where I couldn't tell if it was a chicken coop or a factory. It was terrible to see people working in the circumstances that we consider unacceptable in Europe. At some point, I could no longer ignore it. That's when I founded Alchemist. This was 20 years ago.
Please tell me more about Alchemist's sustainability initiatives.
First and foremost, we source and select the most sustainable fabric options. At the same time, we are very strict about choosing our production partners. I am thrilled with the materials Alchemist uses. Take our wool, for example, it holds the following certifications: Responsible Wool Standard Certification (RWS), Global Recycled Standard (GRS), and The International Alpaca Association (I.A.A). We buy our alpaca and merino wool from certified suppliers where the animals don’t have to suffer. We don’t use any leather or fur, and we are non-mulesing (mulesing is the removal of strips of wool-bearing skin around the breech of the sheep). I have always found it very important to keep the well-being of animals in mind. As a mother, I taught my sons that food is not a given. It is essential to see the value of the “obvious “ things we often take for granted.
How do you involve consumers on the topic of sustainability?
By nature, I am not a very loud person. This translates into Alchemist, but we could do much more to share our sustainability efforts. While you can find what we do on our website, it doesn’t even cover half of what we initiate and undertake. We speak about our efforts with retail buyers in our showrooms and directly with consumers at sale points. That is our strong suit.
How is Alchemist different from other fashion brands?
The passion for Alchemist comes from within the team, from a place of joy and love. When you think about it, we don’t produce large numbers. But we create beautiful clothes with a personal touch. You have to keep the fun in this loaded industry.
What is the biggest challenge for you when it comes to sustainability?
As long as the big companies don’t start using better materials in larger quantities, these fabrics will hit the market less. When these materials are produced on a small scale, the prices are too high to compete with regular materials. At Alchemist, we want to show that the industry can use more responsible materials to create beautiful clothing!
And your biggest goals?
Apart from changing external legislation factors, we must continue and evolve with what we're doing now at Alchemist. This may mean we have to scale down or look at reuse. There’s a lot that could be done. By the way, we want to become a certified B Corp! That’s one of our key goals.
What is going well in the fashion industry?
Awareness is growing. Now factories in India provide the option for better materials and “green” certificates, without being asked. All our suppliers have at least one social certificate and undergo annual audits of several NGOs. We require nine criteria for the production of our clothing, including no child labour, safe working conditions, and fair living wages. And more factories - which I've visited, at least - are looking at the basic needs of workers. When I started twenty years ago, this didn’t exist!
And what REALLY needs to change?
Laws and regulations need to change. Take, for instance, implementing a checklist at the Port of Rotterdam for every fashion brand that imports clothing. This checklist would ensure no child labour is involved, materials are respectful of the planet, and so forth. There also needs to be a shift in mindset: people should accept that ethically produced clothing may have a higher price tag, but that this reflects the actual cost of what it took to produce it.
What is the biggest misconception about sustainable clothing?
The biggest misconception is that beautiful clothes can be produced responsibly. In reality, it’s a matter of making the right choices at every step of the process.
Name a change that a consumer could make to become more environmentally conscious.
Start by simply asking questions about the production process and materials used in the garment. People can significantly contribute to sustainability by being more mindful about who produces the garment. This increased awareness is crucial because consumers ultimately vote with their wallets, deciding which companies and practices to support.
And a tip : invest in sustainable, good quality pieces, they will take you through a few seasons.